Ramanuja's First Pilgrimage

Sri Ramanujacharya's school was growing. A course of study in the Prabandhas (the sacred Tamil hymns) was under way, and the class had reached the verse of St. Nammazhvar's Tiruvaymozhi that begins Ozhivil-kalam (Decad III.3, addressed to Lord Venkatapati or Srinivasa of the holy Tirupati Hill):

Ever joined to You at all times, all service we must render You, O Father! O Light of the Hill from which limpid streams trickle down!

Reading and explaining this verse, Sri Ramanujacharya was carried away in ecstatic thought to the sacred hill. Looking at the assembly before him in the Pushpa-mandapa he asked, "Is there anyone among you willing to stay at Tirupati, grow flower-gardens, and serve Lord Srinivasa with flowers each day?" Ananthalvan (Anantasuri) stood up. "Bid me go, Sir," he said, and he set off at once for Tirupati, where he raised a flower-garden and carried flowers daily to the Lord. He named the garden Ramanujam.

Sri Ramanujacharya received reports of this work and longed to visit Tirupati himself. He hurried through the remaining Tiruvaymozhi course, then went to the temple and asked Sri Ranganatha's permission to tour Kanchi, Tirupati, and other shrines. "Granted, but return soon," came the reply.

With holy leave obtained, Sri Ramanujacharya left Srirangam with his disciples on this first tour after his anointment as Pontiff of the rising Vaishnava faith. Moving north, he worshipped at Mahitakshetra and other shrines, then reached Dehali Nagara (Tirukkovalur), where he rendered homage to Lord Trivikrama, who had once appeared to the Three First Azhvars. From there he went on to Chitrakuta (Chidambaram), but left the place in a hurry.

He next came to Ashtasahasragrama, where he had two disciples named Yajnesa and Varadarya. Yajnesa was very rich; Varada very poor. He sent two disciples to Yajnesa to announce his arrival and to ask for hospitality during his stay. When the disciples arrived, Yajnesa was in an arrogant mood and paid them no attention. He thought that when Sri Ramanujacharya himself came to his doors, he would receive him in proper form.

Rebuffed, the disciples returned with fallen faces and reported Yajnesa's conduct. "Then we shall not enter his doors," said Sri Ramanujacharya. "We shall go at once and unannounced to our poor disciple Varada." (Varada's full name was Paruttikkollai Varadacharya, and his wife was the famous Paruttikkollai Nacchiyar, called Karpasaramamba in Sanskrit.)

They made their way to Varada's humble hut. He was out on his daily begging rounds. His wife saw them coming. She longed to step forward and welcome them, but her only garment was so threadbare that she could not decently show herself.

So she hid behind the door and clapped her hands, hoping Sri Ramanujacharya would take it as a sign of welcome and not turn elsewhere; for that, she felt, would be a disaster to her soul's welfare, since the great teacher's coming to her poor house would then have been in vain. Sri Ramanujacharya at once understood her plight. He took off the colored cloth that covered his head and flung it through a window into the house. She picked it up, wore it, and came to welcome him. Prostrating humbly she said, "O my gracious Guru, you are most welcome to my humble cottage. Pray accept this water for your hands and feet, and be seated."

Then she thought to herself, "What great merit must I have earned, what austerities must I have performed, what gifts must I have given, that Sri Ramanujacharya, who is Lord Vishnu Himself come to save mankind, should come to our house! Divine grace has descended upon us, though we are undeserving. The Guru is God Himself, and He is the good. All we are, body and soul, belongs to Him. The true disciple is one who thinks and acts in this way. But I have not a handful of grain in the house, nor a single coin with which to serve the worthy sannyasin. My husband is out begging, and his poor pickings will not feed such guests. To honor a guest like Sri Ramanujacharya, I will even sin. Long ago, St. Parakala robbed and cheated people in order to serve God. He lay in wait in mountain fastnesses, seized the goods of travellers, and offered them to God. Even Sri Ranganatha Himself was once relieved by him of His precious jewels, and with them feasts were given to the faithful.

"Creatures whirl on the wheel of samsara (worldly existence), but the Guru comes with his teachings, pulls them free, and gives them God. To repay the Guru is impossible. Therefore I will even sell my body to worship him, for God Himself has said, 'If for My sake you sin, it becomes merit; all merit without reference to Me becomes sin.' The Guru is even greater than God. So I will go to the rich merchant of this place, who has been casting his lustful eyes on me for a long time. All shall be used for the welcome of my honored guests."

Thinking this, she turned to Sri Ramanujacharya and said, "Holy Sire, rest here but a moment. By your grace you shall soon see my house filled with what is needed to feast you and yours." She hurried to the merchant and, forcing a bewitching smile, said, "Good man, the time for your long-cherished wish has come. My Guru has chosen to visit my house, and I must entertain him and his party. I need food and vessels. Please send them at once." The merchant, struck by her beauty and inflamed by the overtures she herself was making, obeyed without a word and sent an abundance of things with her.

With these the good woman stood before Sri Ramanujacharya in all humility. Moved by her devotion, he commanded that she herself cook for him, a great privilege for a woman from a holy person. She did so, and after bathing and worshipping God, Sri Ramanujacharya and his disciples partook of the holy food offered in love, and rested in her house while his whole being poured blessings upon her.

While Sri Ramanujacharya was resting, Varadarya the husband returned from his begging. His wife told him everything, from the Guru's arrival to the meal she had been able to set before him and the worship she had been able to offer. "Madam," said the husband joyously, "though young, your wits are old. How else could you have done such a great deed? You are not a wife, you are a goddess. You are not a disciple in name only, for you have sacrificed even a woman's honor for your Saviour." He went to Sri Ramanujacharya, clasped his feet firmly, rose with joined palms, and praised him: "O Prince of men! King of ascetics! A thousand salutations. For the redemption of the living and the lifeless you are born among us, Lord Vishnu Himself, Lord of the Universe. You are all-knowing and all-wise, the very reflection of Sri Hari. Creatures wallow in the deep dark well of their entangled deeds: who but you can lift them from this abyss? Who but the magician can draw venom from a snakebite? Who but the sun can dispel darkness? What but cool water can ease a man's thirst? The samsara-smitten sinner finds relief only by worshipping your holy feet. Praise to my Guru, by whose very power evil itself is redeemed. If you had not appeared among us, how could a sinner like me have been saved? There are learned men by the hundred, but their ways lead downward. How gracious, that your holy steps were turned toward the home of a poor creature like me! The very sight of you has freed me from all my sins. I am content. I rest in peace, and so do my ancestors." Sri Ramanujacharya blessed him, gave him the Sripada-tirtha (water consecrated by the Guru's feet) and let him partake of prasada. Struck by the unity of heart and purpose in this noble pair, Sri Ramanujacharya stayed with them for some time.

The pair now thought of how to repay the merchant's kindness. They both went with Sri Ramanujacharya's tirtha and prasada, delivered them to him, asked him to partake, and then said he might do as he wished with the wife. He took the holy water and food, and as he ate, a strange change came over him. His lust for the lady gave way to wisdom and worship. He walked around her and threw himself before her, hands raised in devotion. "Madam, you are my mother," he said, "and your husband my father. The darkness of ignorance had overspread my mind and made me a fool lusting after you. I fall at your feet, mother. Forgive me. Protect me. Take me to your great Guru and cast me, a slave, at his holy feet. Impose any penance that may cleanse my sin. Only let me walk in the path of righteousness."

The wife told her husband all this, and they went together to Sri Ramanujacharya leading the penitent merchant, whom Varadarya cast at his feet. Sri Ramanujacharya asked how it had all come about and was told. His surprise was equal to his joy. Here was a fine disciple, to whom he duly administered the five Vaishnava sacraments. It is recorded that this disciple from that day shone as bright as the summer moon, having placed all his wealth at Sri Ramanujacharya's disposal. In this way Sri Ramanujacharya's fame spread through the country.

Yajnesa, the rich disciple, knew nothing of all this. He expected Sri Ramanujacharya to be coming to him and had gathered together much for a feast. With his relatives he waited, but no sign of the master came. Puzzled, he went out in search, and sent others as well. They learned that after the cold reception his two messengers had received, Sri Ramanujacharya had gone to Varadarya's house. When this news reached Yajnesa he fell to weeping, hurried to Varadarya's hut, and cast himself at Sri Ramanujacharya's feet begging forgiveness.

Sri Ramanujacharya lovingly raised him and gave him a sermon meant for the whole world: "Yajnesa, listen. What I say is good for your soul. A Vaishnava must receive the five samskaras, know the five truths, and follow his Saviour. But above all this is service to those who are godly. The two messengers who came to you were Vaishnavas, godly men. They came as guests, way-worn. And yet you drove them from your threshold. This did not become you. You should have welcomed them, washed their feet, fanned them, fed them, and worshipped them in every way befitting Vaishnava visitors. They are Lord Vishnu Himself in that form. After they had eaten, you should have eaten what was left as your prasada. This is the way of a true Vaishnava. But if done for show, fame, or gain, it is as good as not done. Yajnesa, houses of show, fame, or gain are not our houses. What pleases God is sacrifice made without motive (satvika-dana)." Yajnesa heard this and was ashamed. "Lord, I am undone. Extend forgiveness to me and accept me." "Son, listen," said Sri Ramanujacharya. "Make amends by daily washing the clothes of the Vaishnavas here, and so be saved."

With that, Sri Ramanujacharya left Ashtasahasra-grama with his disciples and travelled by way of Tirukkovalur (Dehali Nagara), where he visited the ancient shrine of Trivikrama and the Three First Azhvars, before reaching Kanchi. He entered the monastery of Sage Kanchipurna, who was still living, and prostrated before him, offering a verse in his honor.

Purna's joy at seeing Sri Ramanujacharya covered in glory knew no bounds. He led him lovingly to the temple of Lord Varada, the God of Kanchi who, as we remember, had once granted Sri Ramanujacharya to Sri Ranganatha of Srirangam. As he walked reverently he fell on the floor before the gate, the Gopura (temple tower), and the Anaikatta deity. He entered the gate, bathed in the holy pond Anantasaras, consecrated his body with the twelve holy names of God, and visited Jnanappiran (Varaha) in the outer enclosure. Proceeding further, he bowed to the Azhvars, the Bali-pitha, and the Jaya-vijayas, the celestial door-keepers. Turning around, he saluted Adisesha (Ananta), the holy Anthill, and the great hall to its east where Yamuna's gracious eyes had first rested on him and elected him the future Minister of the Faith. Here he repeated the memorial verse for Yamuna.

He then visited Kariyamanikyatt-Emberuman and looked up reverently at the vimana (shrine tower) above the sanctum, then bowed before the goddess of the culinary apartments, and then before Perandevi, the Consort of Lord Varada, offering a verse to Her.

Then came Chakrattazhvan (the Sudarsana Discus), Garuda (the Large-foot, Periya-tiruvadi), and Vishvaksena the Lord of hosts. Ascending the steps of Hasti-giri (Elephant Hill) he came before Lord Varada, Kanchipurna leading and Sri Ramanujacharya following. He cast himself before his old patron Deity, received tirtha, prasada, and Sathakopa, and returned with his mind steeped in divine bliss.

He told Purna of his intention to go on to Tirupati and see Lord Venkateswara. Purna rejoiced at the joy awaiting him and bade him godspeed.

Travelling on with his devotees he lost his way. Looking around, he saw a man drawing water from a well. "Show us the way, good man," he asked. "This way, gentlemen," the man said, pointing. "How can I show my gratitude?" thought Sri Ramanujacharya, and he prostrated before him. The disciples, astonished at their master's spiritual view of men and things, did the same.

The path led straight to the foot of the holy Tirupati Hill, where the Ten Azhvars are enshrined. They made obeisance to them and to the sacred hill itself. Sri Ramanujacharya would not climb the hill, lest he desecrate it with the touch of his feet, so he remained at the foot. While he was there, Vitthala-Deva, king of the Tondira country, heard his fame, became his disciple, and brought him abundant wealth. With it, Sri Ramanujacharya founded a village of thirty houses, each with thirty small estates attached, and granted them to thirty deserving families of his band, naming the village Ila Mandayam.

News that Sri Ramanujacharya had come reached the ears of the venerable Srisaila-Purna and others living on the hill. They came down swiftly, greeted him warmly, and asked him to ascend with them to see Lord Venkateswara (Appan). "Look, Sire," he said to Purna. "The Ten Azhvars have remained here at the foot and never dared to tread on the hill. How can I go up now? It is enough for me to stay here with them and do them service." "If you will not go, Ramanuja," said Purna, "neither shall we." "Then be it as you will, Sire," said Sri Ramanujacharya. He bathed, went to the tamarind tree at the foot of the hill, bowed to the sacred hill, and saying, "By the foot, he ascends," tremblingly began to climb.

As he crossed the seven hills and valleys, he took in the charming scenery: rills trickling down the slopes, low and high plants adorned with flowers of every color, hills and valleys teeming with animal life, the most playful of which were the monkeys. Purna had gone ahead, and by the time Sri Ramanujacharya reached the Tiruppariyatta rock, he came back with Lord Venkata's tirtha and prasada to welcome him. "Venerable Sire, could not some younger person have been sent for this work, instead of your coming yourself?" asked Sri Ramanujacharya. "Sire," replied Purna, "I searched every corner for one younger than myself. I could not find one. I am the youngest, and so I have come to welcome you." Hearing such humility from so venerable a person, Sri Ramanujacharya and his followers marveled. They humbly accepted the honors, and continued to the stone fence, where all the monks, recluses, acolytes, elders, and members of the holy sanctuary met him in a body and escorted him.

He now came in sight of the temple itself. He prostrated before the Vaikuntha gate, bathed in the Koneru tank, marked himself with the twelve holy signs, and walked the four streets, drinking in with his eyes the fine dwellings of the faithful, the ramparts, cloisters, and colonnades. He saw the flower garden tended by Ananthalvan, whom he had sent to live there, and from sheer delight he embraced his faithful disciple, saying, "Having nursed you, I now reap the fruit."

He enjoyed the surrounding groves thick with Vakula, Patala, Punnaga, and other fragrant, honey-flowing trees that gave shade to weary travellers and delighted them with hanging flowers, while bees and birds filled the air with music. Here and there lay cool ponds covered with white and violet lotuses, in which cranes and storks and water-birds swam and danced.

Passing these scenes, he went to Varaha's shrine, bowed, then went on to the gate of Arararacchazhudan and the Attani tamarind tree, the Bali pillar, and the pavilion called Yamunaitturaiver. He sipped the holy water of Swami-Pushkarini, entered the Sanbaka gate, and in order visited the Madaippalli (cook-rooms), the Yaga-sala, Tirumamani-mandapa, Vishvaksena, and Nrisimha. He looked up reverently at the Ananda-nilaya vimana (the cupola over the sanctum), crossed the Kulasekhara threshold, and at last his vision was blessed with the blissful image of Srinivasa within, the God in the Heart, resplendent with all the holy weapons and ornaments, and Sri on His bosom. "Abode of Grace, Srinivasa!" he cried. "I have fallen at Your holy feet!" He stretched himself before God and rose to stand transfixed before the beatific vision, hands raised and folded.

He received tirtha and prasada, stayed to see the ablution ceremony (Tirumanjanam) and the Bali festival of Azhagappiran. "This is indeed heaven," he cried. "This is the abode of angels. I must not stay long, lest I profane the holy place." "But the rule is to stay three days in a holy shrine," Purna reminded him. "So be it," said Sri Ramanujacharya. After three days he went into the shrine with Purna leading, to take leave.

As he stood before Lord Srinivasa, a voice came from the Deity: "Have we not already granted you in Our southern house (Srirangam) both kingdoms, the material and the spiritual (Ubhaya-vibhuti)?" "Your pleasure, Almighty!" Sri Ramanujacharya answered, and he descended the holy hill with Purna.

In Lower Tirupati, Sri Ramanujacharya stayed a year in the house of Srisaila-Purna, taking food with him and reading the Ramayana, the first of the Itihasas, together. There he found Govinda, his maternal cousin, rendering every kind of service to Purna.

One day Sri Ramanujacharya saw Govinda prepare his Guru's bed and then lie down on it himself. He reported this odd behavior to Purna, who summoned Govinda and asked for an explanation. What punishment, he inquired, did a disciple who behaved so deserve? Govinda said humbly, "Such an act surely deserves punishment, Sire, but listen. If by trying the bed first myself I can be sure there is nothing rough or knotty in it that might press your soft body, and that no insect is hidden there to bite and disturb your sleep, it matters little if I go to hell." Sri Ramanujacharya was amazed at this strange answer, and his love for Govinda grew.

Another day, Sri Ramanujacharya was returning from Purna's sacred garden when he saw Govinda put his fingers into the fangs of a snake, then withdraw them, bathe, and continue his usual service to Purna. Curious, he asked him about it. Govinda explained that as he approached, the snake had opened its mouth; on examination he had found a thorn on its tongue, and he drew it out to relieve the suffering creature. "What a tender heart you have, Govinda!" Sri Ramanujacharya said, struck with wonder.

The reading of the holy Ramayana was now finished, and Sri Ramanujacharya humbly asked Purna's permission to return to Srirangam. "You have come so far, noble soul," said Purna. "What have I done for you?" "Sire," he replied, "when I learned that our dear Govinda had strayed, it caused me heartache. I was thinking how to reclaim him when you, Sire, fulfilled my wish by bringing back the poor heretic, preaching the true faith, showing him the dangers of the path he had wandered into, and thus convincing him of our religion's truths. By destroying the wrong notions his wandering mind had formed, you restored him to our holy fold. What better deed can there be? Grant me one more favor, Sire, can you part with him and let me have him?"

Without a moment's hesitation Purna called, "Come, Govinda. From this moment you are Ramanuja's own. I make a free gift of you to him. Go with him and be to him, I command, all that you have been to me. Nothing less will please me."

Govinda said not a word, but after prostrating before his Guru he followed Sri Ramanujacharya. They left Tirupati, and on the way home visited the holy places of Ghatikachalam, Tirupputkuzhi (where the holy well Gridhra Saras and other sacred waters are found), and Tiruvehka, and in due course reached Kanchi, where Sage Kanchipurna welcomed him as usual.

Govinda grew cheerless and daily lost his health. Sri Ramanujacharya, watching him decline, sensed that separation from his beloved acharya (teacher) was gnawing at his heart and producing the outward signs of grief. He thought it best to send him back to Tirupati. He gave him two Srivaishnavas as escorts and bade him depart.

Govinda reached Tirupati and stood silently outside his acharya's house. The attendants told Srisaila that his old disciple had come. Purna was displeased. "Let the mad fellow go," he cried indignantly. "He shall not cross my threshold." Purna's wife begged him that one who had come so far, hungry and tired, should not be sent away so abruptly, but should be given rest and food. "No," said Purna sternly. "Such kindness cannot be shown to a thing sold. A sold cow cannot be given grass. Let him be off."

Govinda spoke not a word, and, tired and hungry, left at once with his two companions. He reached Kanchi, where Sri Ramanujacharya was still staying, and stood before him like a silent statue.

The Srivaishnavas told Sri Ramanujacharya all that had happened at Tirupati. He admired both Srisaila's far-seeing firmness and Govinda's perfect obedience. Gradually, with kindness and wise counsel, he won Govinda over, and in time he was reconciled to his new surroundings.

Sri Ramanujacharya now bade farewell to Kanchi and Kanchipurna, took leave of Lord Varada, and in due time returned to Srirangam. The notables, elders, and dignitaries of Sri Ranganatha's temple met him and escorted him in with joyful ceremony. "Beloved, have you visited my northern abode (Tirupati)?" Sri Ranganatha asked as he stood reverently at the door. Bestowing tirtha and prasada, the Lord bade him return to his old monastery and resume his holy ministry to the growing congregation.